The vitamin-C derivatives also easily penetrate the skin because the skin has a lipid barrier (think: oil dissolves oil), so there’s not as much resistance to the ingredients as something water soluble (like L-ascorbic acid). Unlike L-ascorbic acid, which is water soluble, THD-ascorbate is oil soluble and can be easily added into an oil-based product. One of the most popular derivatives is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (often called THD-ascorbate), which is marketed as a more tolerable alternative that offers similar results. They have to be converted to the active form and are less potent than the pure, active ingredient.” The difference between pure vitamin C and vitamin-C derivatives is similar to retinols and retinoids: Both work, but one is more concentrated and thus more effective. “L-ascorbic acid is the most active form of vitamin C, whereas the derivatives are inactive. Karan Lal says are “less irritating and more tolerable and more stable” forms of vitamin C. If you fall into that category, are just starting out, or have sensitive skin, you can try vitamin-C derivatives, which Dr. While incredibly effective, it can be irritating for some people and even cause acne. Of all the vitamin-C options, our experts generally recommend looking for serums that contain ascorbic acid, also known as L-ascorbic acid, which is the most active and purest form of vitamin C. Our picks - organized by skin needs - are below. To find the best of the best, I spoke to dermatologists, aestheticians, and Strategist staffers who moonlight as skin-care enthusiasts, and tested a bunch myself. That’s why it’s important to find the right formulation - one that makes vitamin C as stable as possible while also delivering it effectively to the skin. Despite its efficacy, vitamin C is notoriously unstable and can quickly go from a hyperpigmentation-zapping wonder ingredient to a $60 bottle of smelly serum. It’s also why there are so many products to choose from. It’s incredibly effective at all of this, which is why so many people use and recommend it. The antioxidant promises everything from fading dark marks to fighting free radicals (which break down collagen) to diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. But vitamin C is one of those actually necessary ingredients. As someone with a fairly minimal skin-care routine, it’s difficult to convince me to add a new product or step.
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